ANSI cut ratings go from A1 to A9. The number is the result of a specific test — how many grams of weight on a blade can pass over the fabric for a fixed distance before cutting through. A1 stops about 200 grams. A9 stops 6,000 grams or more. Each level up roughly doubles the cut resistance.
Sheet metal cuts are weird. They're slicing cuts, not stabbing cuts, and the metal edge is sharp but not infinitely sharp. The edge slides along the fabric rather than digging in.
For light sheet metal — HVAC ductwork, light gauge steel, basic flashing — A2 to A4 covers most situations. The fabric stays thin enough to keep dexterity, you can still grip a screw, and the cut protection is enough for the edge weights you'll encounter. Going higher than A4 for ductwork gives you a stiffer, bulkier glove for protection you don't need.
For heavier sheet metal — auto body panels, heavier gauge structural steel, glass handling — A5 to A6 is the working range. Glass especially needs A5 minimum because edges of broken glass test higher than most metal edges of the same gauge.
A7 to A9 is for industrial process work — meat-cutting, knife-handling production lines, glass manufacturing where you're handling sheets all day. Construction trades almost never need above A6.
The other thing that varies is the coating. Polyurethane is thin and grippy on dry surfaces, weak on oil. Nitrile is medium grip and works on light oil. Latex is grippy and cheap but a lot of guys are mildly allergic. Sandy nitrile and foam nitrile are the workhorses for most metal trades. Match the coating to whether the metal you're handling is dry, oily, or wet.
Cuff length is overlooked. A 4-inch cuff on a sheet-metal glove leaves your wrist exposed exactly where the panel slides past. For active sheet-metal work, get a 6-inch cuff or longer, or pair the glove with a sleeve.
We carry A2, A4, A5, and A6 in dipped and uncoated, in standard sizes. Tell us the gauge of metal you're on most days and we'll narrow it down.